THE FRENCH ALPS
By DUANE WELLS
A Ski Trip to Remember
The late filmmaker Walter Miller — who is enshrined in the U.S. Ski Hall of Fame — once noted that “a pair of skis is the ultimate transformation to freedom.” A similar sense of exhilaration awaits you in the Alps, where with some careful planning, you can create a ski trip to remember.
Stretching across eight Western and Central European countries, the Alps mountain range provides visitors with an incomparable winter getaway to some of the best ski resorts in the world, complete with jaw-dropping scenery, enticing villages and delectable culinary delights. Among the more popular destinations in the Alps is the French resort area of Chamonix, located approximately 50 miles (or a 1 1/2-hour drive) from Geneva.
Arriving Into Chamonix
Much like flying into Denver and deciding how to get to the various ski resorts throughout Colorado, several straightforward transportation options (either by rental car, mountain shuttle or a private driver) are available to take you from Geneva to Chamonix.
The simplest way to get to Chamonix is to book a private shuttle or transfer service. Private transporters like Mountain Drop-offs, AlpyBus and many other car companies offer door-to-door service that can be booked in advance. However, be prepared to pay a premium, as prices typically range from 230-280 euros ($250-$300) for car service or 40-90 euros ($50-$100) per person for a private shuttle, depending upon the size of your group and preferred mode of transportation.
A more economical — and almost equally convenient — option for getting to Chamonix is to book a shared transfer or shuttle. Many private transfer companies also offer door-to-door shared shuttles, which cost approximately 27-30 euros ($30-$50) per person. Likewise, bus services like FlixBus run frequently from Geneva to Chamonix, and cost around 20-23 euros ($22-$25) per person.
If you have time to spare, the most scenic way to arrive in Chamonix is by train. Many trains from France’s state-owned SNCF run daily, whisking passengers through a stunning landscape framed by rivers, mountains and lakes. Though less direct, the train journey from Geneva to Chamonix lasts about three hours and delivers you right into Chamonix’s city center. A breathtaking view of Mont Blanc — Europe’s highest mountain peak — along with the sight of many historic churches and charming inns will greet you upon arrival into town. Expect tickets for the journey to range from 32-60 euros ($35-$66), depending upon the time of day and route.
Car rentals are also readily available, and most rental companies will provide vehicles equipped with snow tires and chains to ensure tourists can safely navigate through the Alps’ winding roads. However, be advised that parking is limited and expensive in Chamonix. Moreover, most accommodations provide guests with a complimentary guest card that offers numerous discounts and benefits. Perks of having a Chamonix guest card include free travel on the urban shuttle bus service known as the Mulet, as well as free travel on the SNCF Mont-Blanc Express network, which has trains that run between the French communes of Servoz and Vallorcine. Once you arrive at your destination, there is little need to drive.
It must be noted that even if your lodging does not provide you with a Chamonix guest card, you can purchase one at a tourist office for around 5-10 euros ($5-$10), depending upon the length of your stay. Buses are also free if you purchase a ski pass, so keep that in mind before considering a rental car.
Ski Passes
One of the great things about skiing in Europe — especially in Chamonix — is the relatively affordable price of lift tickets compared to those in many American resorts. A day pass for the Chamonix Valley typically costs around 71 euros ($79), while a six-day pass costs around 345 euros ($385). The day pass is significantly less than what you might expect to pay for one in the U.S. at various Colorado resorts in Aspen or Vail, where costs can climb well above $200. Additionally, multi-resort passes like the Mont Blanc Unlimited Pass cost about 432 euros ($480), allowing you to ski not only in Chamonix but in nearby resort areas such as Courmayeur in Italy and Verbier in Switzerland.
Lodging
Before hitting the slopes, one must have a place to lay their head. And there is no shortage of beautiful options in Chamonix that range from luxury hotels to cozy chalets.
Favorites include the extremely budget-friendly and hostel-like RockyPop, the hip La Folie Douce, as well as the chic Hôtel Mont-Blanc Chamonix, which first opened its doors in 1849 and continues to be revered for attributes like its elegant design, world-class Le Matafan restaurant and staggering views of Mont Blanc.
Another noteworthy hotel is the luxurious, mountain-chalet inspired Hameau Albert 1er, where the rooms are adorned with wood paneling, stone fireplaces and large windows that showcase views of Mont Blanc. Guests can choose from several types of accommodation from cozy standard rooms to independent Alpine-style chalets. What sets Hameau Albert 1er apart is its unique stylistic blend of Alpine tradition and modernity. Additionally, the hotel houses a Michelin-starred restaurant, Albert 1er, where guests can savor gourmet French cuisine paired with an extensive wine collection — perfect after a day of skiing.
Food
The French Alps are also known as a place for hearty, comforting cuisine, and the Savoyard region — where Chamonix is located — is famous for the rich cheeses, potatoes and meats that are a staple of its traditional dishes. Among the signature regional grub is fondue savoyarde, a soul-satisfying communal meal made from melted local cheeses (like Comté, Beaufort and Emmental) that are blended with white wine and garlic.
Another regional classic — though slightly more Swiss in origin — is raclette, which involves heating a half-wheel of cheese and scraping it onto boiled potatoes, pickles and cured meats. Then there is tartiflette, an indulgent casserole made with potatoes, Reblochon cheese, lardons (bacon) and onions, which will warm your spirit as much as it will your body.
Après-Ski in Chamonix
Indulging in Chamonix’s delicious cuisines is also a satisfying way to wind down a busy day on the slopes, which is a major part of the local après-ski (after-ski) experience. Like most fashionable ski resort areas, Chamonix boasts a lively après-ski scene defined by a few perennial hotspots that come alive each evening during the height of the season.
One such spot can be found back at La Folie Douce, where the après-ski ‘Folie Style’ show starts at 4 p.m. and runs until around 8 p.m., offering high-energy live performances from various DJs, singers and musicians who are accompanied by dancers and aerial artists. And mildly tamer — but no less high on the “good times” barometer — is MOÖ Bar & Cuisine, where the daily après-ski features funky live music, DJs, classic cocktails and ice-cold beers you can serve yourself. If you’re lucky enough to arrive early, grab a seat at the self-service beer table.